Montefiascone to Viterbo

Hello, hello, hello!

Today, has been another of the really lovely ones.

We are staying in the wonderful B&B Orchard in the well preserved Medieval town of Viterbo, our hosts are exceptionally pilgrim friendly, which makes us very happy : ) I had approached Valter and Francesca by email before we left but as I hadn’t been able to give them a firm date of our arrival, of course I was unable to book ahead. Today we arrived on their doorstep, with fingers crossed, as we had neglected to contact them a few days ago when we were assured of our arrival date in Viterbo and to our enormous relief…they were able to accommodate us. It’s always wonderful to stay somewhere that feels like home. After staying in well over 60 new places in the last 10 weeks, you can understand our frustrations each night of turning to the Internet and trying to secure a bed for the following day. It’s a very tiresome pastime but obviously essential, unless of course we had made the decision to carry a tent with us…which we chose not to do. It’s really the pilgrims lot at the end of the day…we never know how far we will be able to walk, really until the night before…when our bodies either whisper encouragingly to us a happy state of being…or scream with outrage at any suggestion of pushing through the pain barriers.

So here we are very happy and contented. Showered, washing done, resting in very comfy rooms with lovely homely facilities to take advantage of at our lesuire. Perfecto!!

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The entrance to B&B Orchard in Viterbo.

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Our cosy little kitchen area.
There are three rooms available here, accommodating up to 6 people, so if you would like to stay here, I advise not to do as we have done and leave it to the last second… but maybe book a little ahead : )

We had a very pleasant walk today..I think about 18 kms in total. We arranged to meet at 6 am, in order to set off….I’m starting to get pretty good at these early starts…all that was needed was a little encouragement from Jo and a quick glance at the weather forecast : )

The VF took us steeply out of the immediate town of Montefiascone up a big flight of steps. We muttered under heaving breaths about the fact that those responsible for this route obviously took great sadistic pleasure in the fact that where ever there was a mountain to be climbed..that is where they would send us. Often we have thought that there must be an easier route..and today we knew there was one but curiosity got the better of us and in the end, we were glad we let the VF be our guide : )

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At the top of the stairs we were presented with a beautiful view over Lake Bolsena and the following vistas.

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There was a delightful garden also at the top of that special staircase….dare I say it but that extra little bit of exertion was well worth the effort.

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The walk took us out along another lovely, long Roman road…similar to my walk yesterday.

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Just a few more photos..taken along the way.

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Looking back on Montefiascone.

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Viterbo is well known for it nearby hot springs, terme, and we had talked at length about them. However we were very surprised as we were walking into the outskirts of Viterbo along a particular dry and dusty section of road, to come across a couple of man made pools capturing these therapeutic waters. At first in the distance, we spotted 3 or 4 campervans and then some very shabby concreted pools….. making us surmise that this was a very basic camping ground. However on closer inspection we noticed a few people wallowing in the waters and realised that we had stumbled upon a hot spring area, seemingly only used by locals..not at all touristy, on the VF!! Now those of you planning to walk this walk, remember your bathers because here, they will be put to good use : ) We did a very swift detour and it didn’t take long before we in turn were enjoying the supposed therapeutic qualities of these waters.

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This lady was so beautiful. I watched her for quite some time, gently pouring water from her cupped hand on to the gentleman’s legs. He obviously was suffering in some way but I was particularly taken by the complete demonstration of love that she shared with him…it really was something very special. This is one of the aspects of life in Italy that has captured my heart… I love the way these people are so expressive and have no fear in showing their emotions.

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This was another lovely sight.. A few of the locals, just enjoying the early morning…the absolute best way imaginable!!

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Haha… hot springs are a perfect excuse to alleviate ourselves from the burdens of our pilgrimage!

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Walking into the amazing town of Viterbo ..

Ok my friends, it’s bedtime for me. I can’t believe it but it’s only 9.30pm, however my body clock is slowly altering….thanks to my little pilgrim friend ..Jo: ) Just between you and me..she’s a tiny bit bossy….not a bad thing though with someone like me…but please don’t tell her I said that…shhhh : )

Night night..

Love Netia XX

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3 Responses to Montefiascone to Viterbo

  1. jacqueline buchanan says:

    I love early mornings too. On the walk from Womenswold to Dover I started from my tent at 4.30am. There’s something so beautiful about being alone in the fresh new world especially in the sunshine. I’ll remember to pack a swimsuit. Fabulous pictures again. Thank you.

  2. maggie says:

    Enjoy that wonderful looking sunshine, because it is particularly freezing and chilly here in Melbourne,
    You got a mention in janet’s Blog ( On the road Again ) today ,,

    ciao , Walkmag

  3. Liz wells says:

    Love your blog …all roads lead to Rome…how many days in Rome?
    it brings back some wonderful memories…still can’t remember the name of the Popes summer residence? Love Lizxx

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